In an effort to get more information on Warhammer, I’ve been listening to some podcasts that I found via iTunes. It’s been a good way to fill in the time during my commute.

The Dwellers Below

As long as you don’t mind the strong language, these Australian gamers are great to listen to. Several of the regulars on the show have been very highly ranked nationally and internationally and so you can get a lot of insight into the game from them. It’s also interesting (for me personally) to see how different the meta-game in Melbourne is.

It takes a few episodes to be able to tell the voices and personalities apart, but the quality of the content is high. I recommend starting with one of their army book review podcasts. They often have tournament reviews which can be good, depending on how much depth they go into on their armies. Sometimes they just talk about how drunk they were rather than focusing on the game 🙂

Of particular note to me, they did an overview of how to play with the Wood Elf army (they suggest lots of Treemen and Treekin and a Spellweaver with Lore of Life).


I found these guys to be a little long-winded, but they are also one of the few podcasts that are family friendly (or at least not listed as explicit). So, as long as you don’t mind a bunch of stuff that’s either not related to Warhammer, or that’s related but only about Warhammer in the Ohio / Midwest area of the US, then it’s not a bad choice.

Bad Dice

I had high hopes for Bad Dice because it’s hosted by Ben Curry who lives near Games Workshop HQ and who has been involved in play-testing some of their products. However, I was disappointed because he and his co-hosts go off into strange asides that are just not that interesting, and it starts to sound more like you’re listening in on three buddies talking to each other with all their in-jokes, rather than to a podcast about your hobby meant for public consumption. I haven’t yet listened to their daily podcast, which (given that it’s shorter) might be less meandering 🙂

As I listen to more I’ll add them in here, along with my feedback.


In writing Herald, I ended up writing some code that is used to rotate the units on the battlefield. I eventually got off my lazy ass and released it as a jQuery UI plugin on github. So I’m announcing the release of jquery-ui-rotatable. If you use it, let me know – I’d love to see it in use around the place.

Herald made open source

I’ve not had a lot of time recently to work on Herald, so I’ve decided to make the source of it available on github. Please feel free to fork the repository there, make changes, submit any back that you think would benefit the project as a whole. Hopefully this work will help someone.

In general, my job has taken up all my spare time, so I’ve not had time to be on any forums, paint any miniatures or play any games (yes, it’s a bad situation). Hopefully these circumstances will change in the next month or two and I’ll be able to get back into painting, modeling and gaming again.

Herald Update Dec 3rd 2012

I’ve added the ability to save your report, which actually starts to make the software really usable. It’s a little bit ghetto, but easy enough to use. In the Game tab, click the “Export Report” button and a bunch of text will appear in a text area which you can then save in a file, e-mail to your buddy, whatever. Copy and paste that same text back into the text area and hit “Load Report” and you’re back in business.

Final features to be implemented should be done this week. I’ll be adding action icons to indicate things like shooting, death, and so forth. And most importantly, I’ll show battle damage to units, so that you can see the strength of the unit deteriorate (and grow, if you’re pesky undead) over the course of the battle. Once that’s all complete, I’ll take Herald out of alpha and start announcing the beta to a wider audience.

Watchtower Tutorial – Part III – Painting



Firstly, I need to apologize for not having this tutorial finished sooner. As you can see from the painted watchtower in this image, I’ve definitely finished the model already (and had done before I started this tutorial). However, two things have delayed me in finishing this series:

  1. The base didn’t turn out how I wanted it to
  2. The lighting was poor for the photos of the painting

As a result, I’m putting in this final post that shows what the finished model looks like along with a quick reference for painting.

Watchtower - Brick Edge

  • Stone: a textured paint like GW’s Astrogranite on the walls and a non-textured version on the bricks (I used Eshin Grey), then drybrush the stone with two or three lighter shades (e.g. Dawnstone, Celestra Gray, Terminatus Stone)
  • Wood: a dark brown base (Rhinox Hide), shade with black and drybrush with lighter brown (e.g. XV-88) and bone colors.
  • Moss: a dark green base (Caliban Green), then drybrush with mid-green (Warboss) and yellow.
  • Window: paint the interior black, and the exterior with the grays used for the stone.

Use a large brush for all of your painting and drybrushing here. Don’t spend your money on expensive brushes as the paint job doesn’t require them and the textured paint and sand will fray the ends. You can purchase half-inch flat brushes pretty cheaply in any arts and crafts store, and I suggest you use those.

Watchtower - Roof

I’ll be building a second Watchtower model to match this one, and showing how to make a (better) base for it, along with using magnets to enable re-positioning of the towers so that your scenery doesn’t look the same every time.

I also intend to build some good extra pieces to combine with the Watchtowers for the same reasons (e.g. crenellations, battlements, ladders and so forth), and as I build them for myself I’ll make sure and take photos and include a how-to guide here on the blog.

Army Update – November 16th 2012

Glade Guard - Front Rank

I’ve finished the first five of the Wood Elf Glade Guard (this is likely the front rank). You can see that I switched my medium/leather brown for the fifth elf (on the far right). I’m not happy with either the Privateer Press brown or the Citadel one (I was recommended XV-88 by the GW staff member), so I’ve now bought a few Vallejo Model Paints to try. Expect an upcoming article soon where I paint three identical cloaks using five paints from each manufacturer in a nail-biting Mega Cloak Paint-off!

Dark Angels Tactical Squad

Ahem. Sorry, got carried away. These fine chaps are the Tactical Squad of Dark Angels from the Dark Vengeance boxed set. Not the best of photos (little bit too much depth of field) but it gives an idea. I’ve marked them up as 6th Company, 1st squadron (which I think technically makes them veterans, but whatever – 1 is easier to paint than just about any other number).

I’m also aiming to start an online battle report on Asrai.org – it’ll be Warhammer, Wood Elves vs Wood Elves. The twist is that it’s a Drycha-led Forest Spirit army vs an all-Elf army. One kicker is that lack of Mac-friendly software for battle reports. Me being me, this has led to an experiment with making a JavaScript battle reporter, one that will work on Mac, Windows, Linux, your watch … I’ll post more on that if anything comes of it.

Watchtower Tutorial – Part II – Detail

Watchtower - Detail Stage CompleteIn this part of the tutorial, we’ll be adding detail to our watchtower that we built in Part I. By the end of this stage, your watchtower will look something similar to the one on the left, which I’ve posed with a couple of Glade Guard to give an idea of proportions. I’ve sprayed this one in black, ready for painting (coming in Part III).

What we’ll be adding

  • Front door
  • Trapdoor in the roof
  • Brickwork
  • Arrow slit
  • Moss (or ivy)
What you’ll need
  • The unused chipboard pieces from Part I
  • Some regular card stock
  • Sand, and a box for it
  • Glue
  • Black primer spray
My local Jo-Ann Fabrics sells big bags of sand (for making pretty flower arrangements I think) that cost $3. Glue I’m using is Elmer’s Glue-All, and I’m using Citadel’s Chaos Black spray, but any spray that works on card is fine. The chipboard and card stock is from the same pack I mentioned in Part I.

Stage 1 – Moss

Watchtower - Detail Stage 1aTechnically, the moss is going to be added at several points. One thing I like to do when I’m gluing anything is to put more glue on than I need, and glue some extra texture on at the same time. As I mentioned in Part I, I start this when I’m gluing the roof to the tower, as seen in this image.

Make sure when you are applying sand to use a solid container to catch all the sand in. That way you can pour as much as you like on to ensure coverage of the glue, and then tip the remainder back into your sand container.

After pouring, leave the sand on the tower for at least 15 minutes (there are other stages which can be completed during that time).

Watchtower - Detail Stage 1bOne of things you’ll notice once you tap off all the sand is that it didn’t stick everywhere there was glue. In fact, over the course of making the model, little bits will continue to flake off.

Don’t panic!

This is pretty normal, and there plenty of ways to deal with it that I’ll go into during each stage. I’m unconcerned with the sand underneath the eaves of the roof because you won’t ever really see under there during the normal course of events.

Now that we’ve got the tower glued together with some moss on the eaves, let’s add some bricks.

Stage 2 – Brickwork

Watchtower - Detail Stage 2aTake some of your regular card stock–I’m using white to make it easy to see in the tutorial, but you can use any color as it’s going to be painted anyway (black is maybe a better choice)–and cut a strip that is 1″ wide, assuming that you’re using a piece 12″x12″. Then slice your 1″ wide strip into brick shapes that are ½” high.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 2bYou should end up with twenty-four bricks that are 1″x½”. Take seven of these bricks and slice them in half again, creating little half-brick squares that are ½”x½” in size. We’re going to use these to create something of a feature corner on one vertex of the tower, and some of the remainder will form little features on the sides to help break the monotony of the walls of the watchtower. Think of these as being similar to the outlines an artist sketches in to suggest a feature, without drawing every aspect of it.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 2cArrange the bricks as shown – this will make it easier for you to ensure you stick them correctly once you’ve applied the glue. As you can see, I have a half-brick beside a full brick, and then alternating a full brick beside a half. Imagine that the dividing line up the middle is actually a corner edge of the tower. As you can see, the line of bricks is 6″ high, which is exactly the height of our tower. You may need to trim the top bricks a little, depending on how much sand you have in your eaves.

Here’s a graphical view of what the tower might look like if you added all the decorations before you assembled it. This is roughly how I laid out my tower, and it doesn’t include any of the locations for the moss, which I’ll show a little later. This is to give you an idea of where to place your bricks. Door and window later.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 2dDraw a line about 1″ from an edge of the tower on each face of the tower that you’ll apply the brickwork to (the first two faces in the diagram above). Apply your glue all the way up the tower from the edge to that line. Then take one half of your line of bricks and start sticking them from the bottom up.

Once you’ve finished with that side, rotate the tower and do the same with the other bricks, making sure that whatever was a full brick on one side is a half-brick on the other. Then glue and place your decorative bricks as shown in the graphic above. Remember that for the decorative bricks, less is definitely more.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 2eWhile your glue is still tacky, apply some more up the edges of the tower that don’t have bricks on them, as well as on the sides of the walls of the roof. This is going to be used for more moss/ivy. It’s also a good idea to have a few patches dotted around the walls as well, and in strategic places on some of the bricks you’ve just stuck on.

Get your plastic container out and pour sand over all the sticky parts that you’ve just created, making sure to get plenty on there. Make sure and cover everywhere and rotate gently to give the sand a chance to stick. Again, some will fall off after, but don’t worry. While the glue is drying, we’re going to make the front door (so you can get your garrison in there during a battle).

Stage 3 – The Door

Watchtower - Detail Stage 3aThere are many different ways to make a door, but I personally like a nice arched look. We’re going to make one that will look like it is wooden with a stone surround. Take some card (the same that you made your bricks out of) and draw a line with your ruler 3″ from one edge. I’ve shown one of my Glade Guard here to give you an idea of the height – the door will end up a little bit smaller than this. Don’t worry about the width of the door just yet, as this will be dictated by the arch that you put at the top of the door. You can of course make a smaller door if you play mainly with Dwarves or Halflings, or you want that sort of feel.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 3b


The next step is to draw the arch. There are a couple of ways to draw the arch, and the method you choose depends on what tools you have available to you. In my kitchen cupboards live many jars of food, spices and condiments and so when I need to draw any kind of circle I grab a lid, can or jar and draw around it. As you can see from these photos, you’ll need two things to trace around, one slightly smaller than the next. If you don’t have a lot of handy circular things lying around, you can use a compass. You’re aiming for a difference in diameter of about a ¼” which will be the width of your stone surround – feel free to adjust to make it as wide as you like. Place the larger lid against the line you drew on your card and next to one edge, then trace a semi-circle around with a pencil.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 3cDo the same with the smaller lid, trying to make sure that your lids are centered in the same spot. You should get a nice looking arch as you can see in this image. Continue the pencil lines from the arch right down to the bottom of the card, and on both sides. Then use your craft knife to cut out the entire door.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 3eOnce you have a door shape, use your craft knife to slowly and gently cut out the surround. Put the surround to one side for a moment. Take your door and place it on your tower where you want it to, then trace around it with a pencil. This is so you know where to put your glue.


Watchtower - Detail Stage 3fPut the door on your cutting mat and slice it in half vertically with your craft knife. Then slice each half in half, and then in half again (all vertically). This will give you 8 “planks” that make up your door. You can cut less if you want the planks to look thicker. Now apply the glue on your tower where you just drew the outline of your door–make sure and fill the entire shape with glue–then place your planks on the door.

I find it easiest to start with the two center ones, and work outward. Leave a little gap between each plank so that it feels more three-dimensional. After you’ve glued all the planks on, take the surround and lay it over the top of the planks so that it overlaps. Your arch will jut out below the bottom of the tower as shown in this diagram. Cut off the bits that stick out. Apply glue liberally to the top of the planks where the surround will be stuck, as well as to the wall of the tower just above and around the arch. Stick the surround to the door, and then sprinkle the area above and around the arch with sand. This should not only cover the gap between the surround and the tower, but also make for a natural moss or ivy pattern once you paint it.

Stage 4 – Trapdoor

Watchtower - Detail Stage 4aRemember those squares of chipboard you cut out when you were making the roof? Now’s the time to reuse them! Take one of the squares and score along it in five equal lengths to create the look of planks. Use the back of your craft knife as the blunter end should help peel off a little wider amount of card, thus creating a better groove. Once you’ve finished scoring, pick up the square and bend it gently with your fingers to help split the planks apart.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 4bNow take another one of the squares and slice four lengths off it. As you can see from this image, the width of each one is somewhere between ⅛” and ¼”. These pieces are going to form the stone frame for the trapdoor, so you can make them whatever width you feel is aesthetically pleasing.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 4cPick a spot on the roof of your tower to stick the trapdoor, bearing in mind that it should be coming up somewhere near a wall of the tower and on the inside. Apply a liberal amount of glue, and stick the door and the surround. You can also apply some sand here if you like, although I felt that this area of the Watchtower was likely to be well-traveled and thus unlikely to have anything growing on it.

Watchtower - Detail Stage 5aWhile this was meant to be an arrowslit, it actually turned out to be a lot wider than you would realistically build one. However, I’m going to continue to call it an arrowslit for the purposes of this tutorial. Cut out a card shape that you want to use as your slit – in this case, I created a pointed arch with a flat sill. Stick it on the side that doesn’t have the door or the feature brick corner (see earlier diagram).

Watchtower - Detail Stage 5c



The final step is to apply glue and sand everywhere that you want to have your moss or ivy growing. In this case, I’ve done it up the side of the roof, both inside and out, around the door, on the bricks and on the walls. This is a good opportunity to apply some more sand to any areas where it might have flaked off already too.

Watchtower Detail Complete

Watchtower - Detail Stage CompleteOnce the glue has dried, take your watchtower outside and place it inside an old box and spray it black. You may need to carefully lift it in order to spray every side and corner of it. This spray step is helpful in helping the sand remain stuck and in sealing up the card to receive the paint that we’re going to add in the next tutorial.

Watchtower Tutorial – Part I – Build


This is the first piece of scenery I’ve built since getting back into the Warhammer hobby, and the main reason is because it’s the most versatile. Despite being a Wood Elf player, I wanted to build a watchtower so that I can use it in the eponymous scenario from the Warhammer Rulebook. In addition, towers look great on the battlefield and, if you build them right, they can be reused in all sorts of other scenery in a modular fashion.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. In this tutorial, I’ll be walking you through how to build a watchtower out of chipboard and card stock. One of the things I noticed is that Games Workshop scenery is fantastic, but in order to have 10 pieces of it, you’ll be handing over between $300 and $500 of your hard earned cash and you’ll still have to assemble and paint the scenery. I hope to be able to show you how to build high quality scenery without breaking the bank.

I’d like to thank my kids who helped me make the tower and who either posed for some of the photos or took photos of me (or rather, my hands) in others. They are aged 9 and 7 and this level of project is definitely fun for them too, if they enjoy any kind of craft.

Watchtower - Complete

I’ve divided the tutorial up into a several sections, and Part I focuses only on building the basic structure. By the end of Part I, you’ll have two simple card towers, ready for decorating (Part II), painting (Part III) and basing (Part IV).

This photo should give you some idea of the size of each Watchtower – without a base it is about 18cm (7in) high. The two figures you see there are Wood Elf Glade Guard which, like the tower, are ready for painting and basing. For those of you who don’t play Warhammer, those miniatures are on 20mm bases and are about 28mm (1.1in) tall. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments.

This tutorial assumes you’ve never built any of your own scenery before, and so it may be a little slow-paced for some. Feel free to just skip through the pictures in that case 🙂

What you will need

  • Chipboard in a 30cm (12in) square
  • PVA glue
  • Old / cheap brushes
  • Craft knife
  • Scotch tape / Cellotape
  • Pencil and ruler

In case you have none of these things, you can get all of them in your local Jo-Ann Fabrics or Michaels. These stores are very similar, very feminine (so don’t be intimidated) and they always have coupons that you can download from their website to give you a minimum of 25% of your purchase (my wife got a coupon in her e-mail today for 60% off any one item).

It’s generally not a good idea to buy these things from a hobby store or Amazon, because the hobby store needs to mark them up and Amazon doesn’t actually sell stuff like this – a lot of it comes from their third-party sellers (check out the “sold by” label) and as a result the prices and quality can vary widely.

I bought a chipboard and card set (10 sheets of chipboard, 10 each of black and white card) for $10 at Jo-Ann (Colorbok Board Basics) which is mostly used for scrapbooking. The chipboard is great quality for scenery though. I also bought a big bottle of Elmer’s Glue-All at the same time, and my craft knives are from this X-Acto set (again – check the price at your local craft store as the 25% off coupons can make the purchase cheaper than from Amazon).

Stage 1 – Scoring the Tower

Watchtower - Build Stage 1aTake a sheet of 12″ x 12″ chip-board, and mark vertical lines at 3″ intervals with a ruler and pencil (I find it helpful to have guidelines before I start using the knife).

Then score along those lines using the blunt side of the craft knife along a ruler to do this, and then score again gently with the sharp side.

Watchtower - Build Stage 1bYou are aiming to score just deeply enough to make it easy to fold the board as shown here. Make sure you score (and cut) on top of a cutting mat or other protective surface. Do not (as I have done) cut up your table surface and then have an angry wife or mom throw things at your head.

After each score, pick up the card and gently fold it away from the direction of the score (in this image, I’ve scored along the top of the card). Bend it no more than 90°.

Watchtower - Build Stage 1cOnce you’re done with all three scores, you should have a piece of board that looks something like this. Obviously this is too large for a Watchtower, so cut it crosswise in two equal pieces (i.e. cut horizontally across at the 6″ point). This will give you enough to build two towers. Alternatively, you can keep it tall and use it as part of a larger castle.

Stage 2 – The Two Towers

OK, I couldn’t resist the Tolkien reference. This stage is pretty easy, but I’ve laid it out in pictures to show some simple techniques to make life even easier for yourself.

Watchtower - Build Stage 2a

Layout the first 6″x12″ piece of board so that it curves up, with the 6″ end nearest to you and measure out a piece of tape just slightly smaller than 6″.

As you can see, my daughter has just pulled tape from the dispenser until it matches the length she needs.

You’re going to join the 6″ ends to each other, so stick the tape along that 6″ edge so that 50% of the tape is on the card and 50% sticks out.

Watchtower - Build Stage 2b

Then lift up the board and wrap it around and stick the two ends together. Put your hand (or a paintbrush, or your kids hand) inside the tower to press on the tape firmly so that it sticks well.

Get another piece of tape 6″ long and tape it along the join on the outside. This will create a join that’s strong enough to take the roof of the watchtower as well as stand up to regular game play, and be easy to paint.

Watchtower - Build Stage 2cWhen you are done, repeat with the other piece of card and you’ll have two simple towers of chipboard.

In the next stage, we’ll add a roof that your miniatures will be able to stand on in order to take pot-shots at passers-by.

Stage 3 – The Roof

Take another piece of chipboard and cut it in half, and half again.

Watchtower - Build Stage 3a

You should end up with two squares that are 6″ x 6″. Inside one square, mark a border with your pencil that is 1″ in from each edge, and use your craft knife to cut out the squares that are formed in each corner.

Make sure and keep these squares in a safe place as we’ll use some of them later for adding detail to the tower. In the next part of the tutorial, we’ll use two of those squares to add a wooden trapdoor in the roof section. If you click through the image above, you’ll see the lines that I drew to mark out the squares.

Watchtower - Build Stage 3b

Score along those lines in the same way you did for the tower. Flip the board over and fold up along your score lines to 90° and then tape each corner with Scotch tape both inside and out, just as you did for the towers you created. You should then have something that looks like a small box without a lid.

Repeat this process with your other 6″ x 6″ square to make a roof for your second tower. From this point on in the tutorial, I’ll give instructions just for one tower – assume you should just repeat the process for your second model.

Stage 4 – Assembly

Watchtower - Build Stage 4aWatchtower - Build Stage 4bThe final step is to glue these two pieces together to make a the watchtower shape. Flip your roof upside down and place your tower on top of it and then mark around it with a pencil. You don’t really need to measure here, just eyeball roughly where the center is (and remember that in mediaeval times, measurements weren’t exact).

Watchtower - Build Stage 4cSpread glue liberally with an old brush, making sure you cover both sides of the lines you’ve marked out. (I actually spread glue right to edge of the roof, because I take this opportunity to add sand – see Part II of the tutorial for more info on this). Place your tower upside down on top of your outline and let it dry.


Watchtower - CompleteAnd that’s it! You’ve built a working Watchtower (or two!) that is as yet undecorated, unpainted and unbased, but in a pinch could be used in a battle if you really need some scenery. Part II of the tutorial deals with how to decorate your Watchtower and get it ready for painting.

Please leave any questions or feedback in the comments. It would be cool to see photos of any you build!

Buying Warhammer Stuff on eBay

I’ve ordered a few things from eBay in the last couple of weeks. There are two main issues that I’ve run into.

  1. People paint things really badly so stuff needs to be stripped
  2. It’s hard to tell which army book is the current one

I’ve found a few good resources that hopefully will prove useful and thought I’d share them. The Dakka Dakka forum has a great thread on stripping paint, which I hope to put to good use on these Dryads.

As you can see, the paint was smeared on (at least it was a nice color!) and the model was stuck together without any prep. You should work on the assumption that anything you buy from eBay will have just as bad a paint job, unless they show some really good close-up photos of the miniatures.

Also, be prepared for bad smells. Other people may not have the same living habits that you do, and the miniatures you get may smell of smoke, pets or even just chemicals from non-acryclic paints. You have been warned.

As for army books, Wikipedia has an excellent list of each Warhammer Army book, including it’s ISBN, what edition it came out for and when it was superseded. This makes it easy to identify whether someone is trying to sell you the latest version of the book or an older (and obsolete) copy.